Archive for the ‘pistol grip carving’ Category

Custom Gunstock Carving & Engraving

Custom Gunstock Carving & Engraving


For all you cowboy action shooters, cowgirl sharp shooters, and those who love the sport of riflery, Uri

has got himself a replica of an 1866 Yellow Boy by Uberti,  a gun of the Old West.

While he offers Gunstock carving and receiver engraving of Wild life, African Big Game, Hunting, Classic

Scrolls, Commorative Events, Military (past & present) and more; this project will be of the American

West.

WowWee! Just look at that engraved ‘Sitting Bull’ 

on the butt plate of the rifle (still being refined)…

Uri promised h’ell be carving and engraving much

more on this YellowBoy.

 

Whether long barrel, short barrel, double barrel;

whether preferences for deep relief / semi relief carving

and / or engraving on receivers, barrels and metal parts; keep in touch and your sharp focus on the

coming progress.

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pistol Grip Carving of PT-92 AF Taurus

Pistol Grip Carving of PT-92 AF Taurus

 




With the purchase of a new Articulating Trinocular Stereo Microscope in 2009, and having been pleased with the results of the Pistol Grip Carving of the P-228 Sig Sauer (re: previous post) as well as other wood carving and engraving projects, I decided to revisit my PT-92 AF Taurus Pistol Grip Carving. (see more Gunstock and Pistol Grip carvings).

This microscope gave for optimum magnification and clarity (with a variety of options terrific for fine details for wood carving and engraving) enabling me to refresh the Taurus Pistol Grip Carving. I first stripped the entire finish giving me a new canvas; thus making it possible to refine the original details of the carving. It also afforded me the opportunity to refinish the Pistol Grip and take new photos.


Pistol Grip Gallery:



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Pistol grip carving of P-228 Sig Sauer

Pistol grip carving of P-228 Sig Sauer


My most recent carving is a P-228 Sig Sauer pistol grip. This pistol grip was a special order by my client and was factory made of Rosewood.

The client requested an original design that would not only be unique but comfortable.

After the design was approved, I used my light table to create a mirror image with  a modification to account for the initials and safety button area.

The use of my light table saved me time and assured me there would be accurate continuity of the chain design at the seam after assembly.

In putting together the 2 halves of the grip, I used 2 bolts and wood spacer to hold the grip in the position resembling the pistol.

I positioned and glued the stencil with the final adjustment to assure the pattern matched at the seam.

Thus, I proceeded to carve. The carving complete, I used gold leaf inlay for initials; seal and finish.


Pistol Grip Gallery:


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Gunstock and Pistol Grip Carving Made Easy with Light Table

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Thanks for the intro Chip……

Why does a Gunstock carver need a light table? Oftentimes a pistol grip requires a mirror image drawing. It is a especially useful for custom design patterns; as well as for accuracy, time saving and copying from existing photos or patterns.

While a light table is certainly available in most Art and Craft  stores, it is more fun to build one. In addition, one is able to build it to their own need and size. For instance, a sign maker and/or graphic artist may require a bigger size opposed to a gunstock and pistol grip carver who may  require a smaller size.

I decided to build my light table to accommodate for a standard 24″ flourescent light. This will not be weightly making it easier to carry from one station to another.

Following is a sketch and list of materials. (This worked for me. I kept it simple and practical. Someone else may chose to build a box with fancy joinery or miders).

As a reminder, before going out to purchase the material, don’t hesitate to see what may be available to you in your garage or amongst leftovers. Don’t be afraid to improvise if necessary.







According to Plan Details:

1. build a box with a 1×6 (may be pine or poplar); use glue in the joinery and screws or finish nails to fasten it (a finish nail gun can make life easier).

2. insert 1×1 wood strip flush with the  bottom of the box (with glue and finish nails).

3. cut 1/2″ plywood, glue and nail over 1×1 wood strip.

4. install 3/4″ x 3/8″ moulding – 1/4″ below top rim all around to accommodate for 1/4″ frosted glass.

5. drill (4) 2″ holes to accommodate for 4 vents for air circulation and cooling.

6. install (4) 1×1 corner moulding in all 4 corners to cover joinery and screws/nails.

7. cut opening for switch and 1/2″ hole in center 1/2″ below top to enable you to pop up the glass for maintance (a pencil with an eraser is ideal for this task).

At this stage paint interior and exterior of box (preferable with semi-gloss enamel finish).

8. after paint dries, install (2) 24″ flourescent units (includes switch, cord and plug).

9. install trim: 4 bumpers, 2 handles, glue (4) 2″ vents (with construction adhesive).

10. insert self-adhesive foam on 3/4″ top moulding to accommodate for cushioning glass.

11. install 4 small brackets to secure glass flush with top rim.


I will be glad to field any questions and receive notes and pictures of success.


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